Feet Handling
Many riders have never had to worry about the farrier/trimmer having trouble handling their horses. Their horses have had positive experience with trimming or shoeing many times in the past and in most cases are quite content to cooperate with the procedure.
However, what happens if you have a young or inexperienced horse or one that has picked up an unfortunate habit when it comes to handling their legs and feet? (Please note to following recommendations are a generalization of an approach that can vary in many different ways. Always assess your skills and abilities in relation to what your horse needs and seek professional assistance if in any doubt.)
It is important for us to begin with an understanding of how important the horse’s feet are to them. Self-preservation is always at the forefront in the mind of an equine and that focus and priority is directly related to the use of their feet. In their mind, survival most often involves the freedom of movement. For us to obtain control of those feet through the mind with understanding is a significant statement from the horse about its trust in us.
With a horse whose feet cannot be handled safely, start by making sure you have some communication basics in place, having the ability to direct the feet, particularly with the “go”, the “stop” and yielding the hindquarter. In this way, you can make standing still a better option for your horse to choose as you introduce the idea that you will be touching his legs and feet. A flag or soft rope (a thick, cotton one works well) may be needed to teach him better acceptance of that stimuli without putting yourself in danger.
Understanding and applying the principles of both approach/retreat and pressure/release/timing will be crucial as you progress to being able to touch the horse all over his legs. It is important to work in a safe environment, such as a corral or roundpen, where there is room to move and allow the horse to work through what is being asked of him. I do have a video on this process in my Online Video Library at https://truewesthorsemanship.com/remuda/
Part of what you’re trying to show the horse is that it can be safe for him to “give up” one of his legs and how to balance on the other three. Remember that balance is also related to their ability to survive, so being imbalanced can be a scary thing for them. Even after he accepts you touching his legs, he may still kick out when you ask him to pick one up. The thick, soft rope – to avoid any rope burn – can be handy to get him responding properly, again without endangering yourself. Begin by getting him used to wearing it while moving (this is where your basic groundwork will come in handy – and be tested). You may have to work the lead rope with one hand and the leg rope with the other. Some rope handling skills are important, as is the ability to yield the hind quarter away while the horse gives to the halter, so that you stay safe.
When he is happy to stand again and you’ve let him think, see if you can ask him to move forward and begin using the rope to pick up his foot each time he is about to pick it up anyway while moving forward. This will get him “leading by a foot” and improve his understanding of yielding the foot.
Back at the standstill make sure his other feet are positioned for balance and then begin asking for him to take the weight off the leg with as little pressure as possible. See if you can recognize the smallest try and reward it. This will minimize the likelihood of just getting in a kicking fit before he has an idea of what you’re asking and how he can simply respond. Let him have a good rest of a minute or two as you start to see progress. Continue to reward him at proper intervals. With a young horse especially keep the sessions short.
Getting the idea across of yielding the foot to the direct feel of the rope can be made clearer by including movement, so you may go back to leading by a foot or trying to come to a stop by holding the foot as it’s going.
After he is consistently picking up the leg when asked without kicking, start to hold it up for a second or two and then put it down. This introduces the idea that you will be the one holding and setting down his legs. Again, it is important to recognize and reward the “try”. If he starts kicking at the rope again, just hold until there is a slight release.
In extreme cases, a “scotch hobble” can be used to help the horse stop fighting the idea. If you simply cannot stay with him or your arm wears out from holding the rope before he stops kicking against it, the “scotch hobble” may be a good alternative. It effectively puts the weight of the leg and kicking action on the horse himself and helps him learn to yield and find the balance on three legs. In such cases, it is vital to know your limits and stay safe. It is always better to seek out professional help rather than risk injury to yourself or the horse.
Teaching a horse to “give” or stand with the proper use of soft rope and/or hobbles can pay off hugely in the future if he happens to get a leg in a fence or loose wire. Many horses have had their legs and lives spared because of such training.
Eventually, you will begin touching the leg and foot all over, keeping the rope there in case he begins kicking again. Then you can begin asking him to pick up the leg with your hand, again with the rope as a backup. Lengthening the time you hold it up, adjusting the positions and making noises and contact with rasp or nippers (like the farrier will do) will all continue building the acceptance that is needed. I have two videos demonstrating a few of these points on our Online Video Library here: https://truewesthorsemanship.com/remuda/. This process with your horse may take a number of sessions.
Be patient, take your time, and remember to make the right thing easy and the wrong thing difficult!